I was also a guest of a client at Bourbon Steak at the Westin St. Francis hotel. I am generally not a fan of steak houses as the portions are ginormous with prices to match. The same was true here though I was being treated (that took care of the price) and I was able to get a reasonably sized filet mignon that was tender, tasty, and well prepared. The meat is all from sustainable, organic farms. The side of frites was delicious. We washed it all down with a delightful 2007 Elizabeth Spencer Cabernet from Napa.

I don’t have hotel news to report as I was able to stay at the elegant Olympic Club courtesy of a friend. I had business meetings at The Clift which was, in the Morgans Hotel Group tradition, as self-consciously hip and dimly lit as ever. The Redwood Room remains an lovely spot for a cocktail.

Not as thorough as my usual report, I know. What treats have you found while on business in San Francisco lately? For me, it’s off to Atlanta next week…

Cary Grant once phoned hotel mogul Conrad Hilton in Istanbul, Turkey, to find out why his breakfast order at the Plaza Hotel, which called for muffins, came with only one and a half English muffins instead of two. When Grant insisted that the explanation (a hotel efficiency report had found that most people ate only three of the four halves brought to them) still resulted in being cheated out of a half, the Plaza Hotel changed its policy and began serving two complete muffins with breakfast. From then on, Grant often spoke of forming an English Muffin-Lovers Society, members of which would be required to report any hotel or restaurant that listed muffins on the menu and then served fewer than two.

I think that this is a society in which all Nomads should be active. There’s a restaurant in Boston’s Kenmore Square called Eastern Standard. Lovely place and most active in the evenings where it has a lively bar scene. However it is open for breakfast as it is attached to the Hotel Commonwealth. It is a quiet, refined place to start the day — but they only serve one slice of toast. Drives me mad.

It’s good to know that Cary and I have something important in common.

Heaven?

Apparently not if you live in Meadowview in southwestern Virginia. That’s where Steven Hopp is trying to run such a restaurant: Harvest Table. Yet the locals — the very people he is working to benefit — would rather eat at Pizza Hut. Even the farmers are not enthusiastic because they’d apparently rather grow tobacco or monoculture crops for large buyers.

I find the model inspiring. There is a commitment to the local economy and celebrating what the nearby land can produce. They even source all of their wine from Virginia. Hopp told the New York Times that he wants the business to benefit as many local people as possible. And this is no charity — though the restaurant has not yet turned a profit yet the plan is to do so. The service is apparently wonderful. I want a restaurant like this in my neighborhood and am lucky that Boston offers several (though all at higher price points).

What is so depressing is that the local community chooses mass produced, mediocre fare — food that offers fewer nutritional benefits (I’ll leave taste to the palette of the beholder though I know I’d be happier at Hopp’s Harvest Table – Pizza Hut doesn’t even make vey good pizza) served by establishments that will contribute a lower percentage of their profits to the local economy: chains typically do as most profits go back to headquarters. Perhaps the local population are in a sugar-MSG induced coma. Perhaps they are relatives of the folks in West Virginia who fought so hard against Jamie Oliver when he tried to introduce healthier food to their schools. Perhaps they need to wake up and smell the kale.

Let me simply say that I am profoundly grateful to have multiple farmers’ markets that I can visit and many restaurants that support local food producers. And to Mr. Hopp, keep the faith.

Cognac Bistro Photo: Boston Herald

The restaurant scene in Boston is always lively. Recently, your Nomad-in-Chief has had the chance to try three new eateries. I’m happy to say that all are worth a visit.

First is Tico, the new Mediterreanean bistro from chef Michale Schlow (of Radius fame). Tico features a wide range of small plates: Serrano ham and tomato-rubbed bread, salmon ceviche, tender pork tacos, chorizo risotto, and more. Four of us shared a wide selection of these and none disappointed. For dessert we shared a thin, rich chocolate tart and bread pudding with raisins. Yum. We accompanied it all with a couple of bottles of resaonably priced Albarino — a  memorable evening. The friendly service rates an A+.

Not far away, on the edge of the theater district, is Rustic Kitchen. The Park Square area has attracted a number of mediocre chains and Rustic Kitchen makes for a great alternative (perfect for a pre-theater dinner). The salads are oversized — the mozzerella was fresh though the “vine ripened” tomotoes were a disappointment — and the pasta fresh. The tagliatelle bolognese and orecchiette with crumbled sausage and broccolini were both rich without being heavy. Neither swam in its sauce — the mark of pasta done well. We washed it all down with a lovely Sangiovese Grosso. As with Tico, the service was excellent — friendly and able to keep us on a pre-theater schedule without rushing us.

Finally, if you are heading just a couple of miles west, you must stop at Cognac Bistro. I’ve been dreaming of an authentic, local French bistro for some time and this spot was worth the wait. It is small — just 31 seats — and offers a traditional bistro menu with steak frites, roast chicken, and lamb shank. Did I mention the oyster bar?! All of the dishes we tried were flavorful and prepared well. The wine list was short and well-priced. We had a delightful Chateau Sargent Bordeaux. Mini desserts offer a few bites of sweetness without loading on the calories.  (Read the Boston Herald review)

Rosenblum is  a consistent maker of lovely wines that capture the territory of their little piece of Sonoma.

The bar service at Wildfire is another reason to check them out on a Monday. My barkeep, Nicole, was friendly and accommodating. She was conversational enough to make me feel welcome but never imposing or overly chatty.  The perfect balance for the solo business traveler.

This is a pretty desolate part of Atlanta but Wildfire makes it feel a bit more humane.

I was recently on a whirlwind trip to New York and DC and did a fair amount of hotel dining. In Washington, Arlington, VA actually, I was staying at the Hotel Palomar. It’s a Kimpton property and they run their restaurants as independent entities. Damaso Trattoria Moderna has an Italian theme, as you might expect, and I found the pasta good though not groundbreaking, the service attentive, and the prices fair. Breakfast was excellent and served promptly. It’s a good choice as there wasn’t much else around unless you walk across the bridge to Georgetown (and if you go for that short walk, try Mendocin0 Grille and Wine Bar for an elegant dinner). The Palomar itself is an elegant property though I abhor lobby-on-an-upper floor designs of which this is an example.

Heading to New York, I chose Blu using Open Table as it appeared to be close to my hotel, The Indigo. Upon arrival, I discovered it couldn’t be any closer — it was off the lobby. It proved ideal for a late dinner with a business colleague though I could see that it could get crowded and loud at times. I had Alsakan Cod that was quite moist and flavorful. It was pricey given that it was associated with a mid-range hotel but in this case I was happy to have it be a step above (though the Indigo is fine for the business traveler looking to stay in Chelsea).

More recently, I had about ten minutes to book a restaurant in New Orleans. Again, I turned to Open Table and chose 5 Fifty 5. When we found the address, 555 Canal Street, we discovered that the restaurant was in the Marriott. Not an option when in a culinary capital like NOLA. Luckily my antennae are always up and I remembered passing an elegant spot a couple of blocks back, Le Foret. We retreated there and had a wonderful meal. Our bouches were amused three times before our first courses arrived (a grilled asparagus salad in my case). This was followed by naturally raised tenderloin that was tender and flavorful. We were served ginger chocolate bites as a closer so there was no need for dessert. The wine list was reasonably priced: we chose a Gundlach Bundchu Merlot for $48.

My lessons learned: when traveling on business, take the extra click to look at the Web site of a restaurant to make sure that you know what you are getting (we provide direct links here on Executive Nomad). Some hotel restaurants are quite good; others are middle-of-the-road at best so know what you are getting.

Instead I found Sam & Harry’s, which proclaims itself to be in the classic steak house tradition. It didn’t feel it, but in a good way: the interior was airy and well-lit. The staff was friendly if a bit slow at first. I think that I chose a bar stool on the dividing line between the territories of two barkeeps. Once they worked out who was going to wait on me, the service was great.

My Coulotte steak ($14) was just the right size — about 6 oz — and cooked exactly as ordered. It was tender and flavorful. Dining in “the classic steak house tradition” means that you get meat and not much more on your plate unless you order sides. I had the broccolini which was nicely al dente. I refrained from ordering a starch in anticipation of an offering of bread that never materialized. That would be my most fervent recommendation to Sam & Harry: delicious bread is part of the classic steak house tradition.

The menu is quite reasonable with my steak just costing $2 more than the burger (although the burger came with fries that were $4 as a side order if you want them with the steak). There are salads and other sandwiches though it is clear that steak is the main thrust. There were, I believe, six variations on offer.

The by-the-glass wine list is adequate if not adventurous — this is a chain after all. I had a Tierra Secreta Malbec that paired nicely with the steak.

Sam & Harry’s was a good place to refuel before the flight home and would have been great for a business lunch or dinner. Still missing Legal’s? Not so much.

Looking to dine away from the airport? Fellow Nomads have some updated suggestions: Masa 14 for Latin and Asian small plates, Monmartre if French is what you crave, or The Oval Room for contemporary American.

Have you been to DC lately? Share your favorites for a business lunch or dinner.

The Perimeter is in the Sandy Springs area and is rather desolate: a modern landscape of malls, undistinguished office buildings, chain restaurants, and hotels like the Marriott. Even the W seemed forlorn. Taking a walk one evening I felt like an alient being: the only two-legged creature roaming the concrete tundra.

Still the MARTA was nearby which made it easy to get to the hotel from the airport without burning a lot of fossil fuel.

All was not lost, however. This nomad is not easily defeated. One of my local hosts brought us to the Float Away Cafe, a chic modern spot located in a renovated warehouse. The elijay apple, endive, and raddichio salad with fresh cheddar was crisp and delicious. The calves’ liver appetizer also received raves.  For entrees, the ahi tuna with blood orange was tender and flavorful, the quail with bartlett pears was moist and tender, and the mountain trout with brussels sprouts also got high marks. The wine list was quite reasonable (we had a Terrazano Malbec for $26).

I made two visits to the Woodfire Grill: one for lunch and later for a glass of wine after dinner. The place felt like a chain, perhaps because of its location next to a mall or the design that felt like it could be replicated easily and efficiently – but a Capital Grille sort of chain that was fine for a business lunch or dinner. However, it is a locally owned spot that features many local and organic ingredients. The service was friendly (though it was difficult to get them to stop clearing plates until we’d all finished a course). We four all had the Alaskan Cod lunch special that was flaky and moist with a panko crust. We left pleased.

When I returned later in the evening, I was pleased to find a bar that was dark enough that it felt like a place where adult beverages could be consumed yet light enough for reading a magazine (I find that key when out alone). The wine list was unadventurous but adequate and there was a Hanna special that was quite tasty. I’ll visit again when I am in the neighborhood.

I was also lucky enough to have two home-cooked meals which is a real treat while on an extended business trip. The only words I’ll share on those are praise: both were delicious and generous. The other treat: I snuck into the Varsity for a chili dog and onion rings one day at lunch – a real down-home treat.

Last by not least, should you need to bring a gift for your host or hostess in the event of a home-cooked offering be sure to check out Wine Styles. All of the wine at this shop is $25 or less (so you won’t break the bank) and they offer regular tastings. We found the staff quite helpful and the wines generally of good quality and excellent value. They also stock a nice selection of gift bags. Now you know why we try to list a wine shop, florist, and chocolate shop in every city we cover. We’re still looking for a great florist and chocolatier in Atlanta. Thoughts? Recommendations?

It’s done in the classic style — furniture reminiscent of some not-quite-discernable previous period — Edwardian, perhaps — which is a bit different now that most new properties are grasping for hipness. The room was certainly adequate and well-priced: the weekend rate was just under $200. The bed was comfortable and requests for decaf coffee for the in-room coffee maker and extra towels were seen to promptly. The staff was courteous throughout.

The television was set on a wall perpendicular to the way one lies on the bed which made viewing awkward, particularly given that there was no side chair as an alternative. However, that was a mild distraction — when one is in NY, the last thing on the agenda should be watching television.

It’s generally true that the farther east or west from 5th Avenue you are willing to venture, the greater value you’ll find. Most of the comparable hotels we’ve found are farther south — Murray Hill has quite a few — and if you want to be a bit more uptown, The Fitzpatrick is a good choice. Just two blocks south of Bloomingdale’s, it is a bit dangerous if you have a shopper in tow.

We did discover two wonderful restaurants to put on your list (they’ll be going on our NY page shortly): Toqueville and 15 East  both on East 15th Street. We visisted both as part of a private affair so please take these observations in that context. Toqueville offers French cuisine in a cozy, comfortable setting. The roasted pear salad, golden beet risotto, and beef two ways were all memorable. The portions were just right for a four-course meal.

We didn’t actually get to eat at 15 East (it was the site of a wedding ceremony we were attending) but several of the people we met during the evening confirmed that it is a great local spot: neighorhood-y yet still elegant enough for an evening out to feel special. We will be stopping by to try the sushi when next in NYC.

Gourmet has been an inspiration to me for years. It is among the catalysts for my view of travel that focuses on experience, authenticity, and adventure that can be part of even the most mundane business trip if you approach it with the right frame of mind. Gourmet was always about more than recipes — it was about our physical and spiritual relationship with food and the places where we encouter food whether in the field, in the kitchen, or on the plate. Nourishment in every sense of the word. It offered consistently intelligent and insightful travel writing (my favorite part of the magazine).

I do extensive research before I travel and Gourmet has been a regular resource as I make the list of places to evaluate for posting on Executive Nomad. Much like my old issues of European Travel & Life (where I once worked — the obit is remarkably similar in tone), I think Gourmet will remain a resource for some time to come. Ruth, if you or any of your staff want to contribute to Executive Nomad, just let me know.

Most of the commentary on the closing I’ve read have focused on the flight of advertisers from print in general or to titles that are more focused on practical how-to features. Gourmet has always been aspirational and I think that we are no longer an aspirational nation. We have become much more sophisticated about food and the world in general so people may no longer look to the guidance on how to expand their worlds (though, to me, that is the beginning of both intellectual and physical death). We have become used to acquiring rather than aspiring. You don’t dream about a killer kitchen,  you dip into your home equity and get one (well, at least until recently).  We’ve also succumbed to our over-busy, over-fragmented, over-scheduled lives and our reach is more limited: a great (and I use the term loosely) 30-minute meal for the family rather than a knockout, five-course dinner party for 10 that would include engaging conversation long into the evening.

I don’t doubt that few of us lived that life regularly but we did each month in the pages of that magazine. It was, in many ways, more dream book than how-to manual. Advertisers prefer how-to. The “insert tab A into slot B” connection is easy for them to understand. I like how-to as well but not to the exclusion of what-could-be. Find me a how-to magazine that had a significant impact on the larger conversation. Martha Stewart Living may come to mind but Martha has always been focused on a larger mission of bringing elegance to everyday life. How-to is simply a vehicle, not an end in itself.

Gourmet was also criticized for catering to an elite. It did and I’m proud to count myself among that elite — an elite that I see as open, democratic, and welcoming to all who hunger for deeper understanding of themselves and the world around them. Apparently we are dwindling in number and getting too old to matter to many advertisers. That is sad on many fronts.

Finally, a bit about the finances of magazines. They were never meant to make a lot of money. They were meant to make a reasonable return in good times and not lose the whole pot when the economy got tight. This is one reason why I never understood private equity’s interest in publishing except to the extent that they see a situation where they can quickly extract some value and then push the corpse into the river. Don’t go into publishing to get rich. If you manage to obtain great wealth, consider yourself extraordinarily lucky.

Magazines have been a way to unite people with imagination but not much money with people with money but not much imagination. Perhaps you made a bundle in cement. Perfectly respectable but not very sexy. Invest some of that bundle in a magazine and you suddenly get invited to the right parties, hang out with some artsy people, get a little wild.  You may get Park Avenue respectability or downtown street cred depending on the title. You get a tax loss to offset of that cement money. You get to have some fun and expand your horizons. Perhaps you even get laid. That, Mr. (or Ms.) Moneybags, is your ROI.

And, as Kelvin Thompson and I discussed on the MontaRosa blog, it will be intriguing to see if the same CEO who has presided over all of the cuts at Conde Nast can also lead an aggressive expansion into new media and titles.

There is an interesting review of a history of Ramparts magazine in the Times today that shows the difference between a magazine with editorial balls and most of the pack:

Ramparts stood apart from the brawling underground press of the 1960s not only because of the quality of its writing, but also for its élan, its aura of brewing drama.The magazine looked good. It was printed on glossy stock and, rare for an alternative magazine, had national distribution. (In 1968 its circulation was nearly 250,000, more than double that of The Nation.) Its covers were provocative, occasionally bordering, Mr. Richardson acknowledges, on seditious. One infamous Ramparts cover from 1969 depicted a 6-year-old boy holding a Vietcong flag. The caption said: “Alienation is when your country is at war, and you want the other side to win.”

Gourmet was hardly radical or underground but it had recently become more political, looking at the ethics of food and food production. I don’t see Rachel Ray taking on that challenge (but I’d welcome it if she did — the debate could use a little perkiness).

Executive Nomad is my magazine. I’ll likely never have glossy paper or extravagant photo shoots but they aren’t the point. We need people pushing the dialog and advancing our discussions. Ruth Reichl and her team at Gourmet did that. I’ll miss them and look for their voices to reemerge. In the meantime, I’ll try to honor them as my fellow Nomads and I carry on the good fight.