I wasecently on a whirlwind trip to New York and DC and did a fair amount of hotel dining. In Washington, Arlington, VA actually, I was staying at the Hotel Palomar. It’s a Kimpton property and they run their restaurants as independent entities. Damaso Trattoria Moderna has an Italian theme, as you might expect, and I found the pasta good though not groundbreaking, the service attentive, and the prices fair. Breakfast was excellent and served promptly. It’s a good choice as there wasn’t much else around unless you walk across the bridge to Georgetown (and if you go for that short walk, try Mendocin0 Grille and Wine Bar for an elegant dinner). The Palomar itself is an elegant property though I abhor lobby-on-an-upper floor designs of which this is an example.

Heading to New York, I chose Blu using Open Table as it appeared to be close to my hotel, The Indigo. Upon arrival, I discovered it couldn’t be any closer — it was off the lobby. It proved ideal for a late dinner with a business colleague though I could see that it could get crowded and loud at times. I had Alsakan Cod that was quite moist and flavorful. It was pricey given that it was associated with a mid-range hotel but in this case I was happy to have it be a step above (though the Indigo is fine for the business traveler looking to stay in Chelsea).

More recently, I had about ten minutes to book a restaurant in New Orleans. Again, I turned to Open Table and chose 5 Fifty 5. When we found the address, 555 Canal Street, we discovered that the restaurant was in the Marriott. Not an option when in a culinary capital like NOLA. Luckily my antennae are always up and I remembered passing an elegant spot a couple of blocks back, Le Foret. We retreated there and had a wonderful meal. Our bouches were amused three times before our first courses arrived (a grilled asparagus salad in my case). This was followed by naturally raised tenderloin that was tender and flavorful. We were served ginger chocolate bites as a closer so there was no need for dessert. The wine list was reasonably priced: we chose a Gundlach Bundchu Merlot for $48.

My lessons learned: when traveling on business, take the extra click to look at the Web site of a restaurant to make sure that you know what you are getting (we provide direct links here on Executive Nomad). Some hotel restaurants are quite good; others are middle-of-the-road at best so know what you are getting.

Instead I found Sam & Harry’s, which proclaims itself to be in the classic steak house tradition. It didn’t feel it, but in a good way: the interior was airy and well-lit. The staff was friendly if a bit slow at first. I think that I chose a bar stool on the dividing line between the territories of two barkeeps. Once they worked out who was going to wait on me, the service was great.

My Coulotte steak ($14) was just the right size — about 6 oz — and cooked exactly as ordered. It was tender and flavorful. Dining in “the classic steak house tradition” means that you get meat and not much more on your plate unless you order sides. I had the broccolini which was nicely al dente. I refrained from ordering a starch in anticipation of an offering of bread that never materialized. That would be my most fervent recommendation to Sam & Harry: delicious bread is part of the classic steak house tradition.

The menu is quite reasonable with my steak just costing $2 more than the burger (although the burger came with fries that were $4 as a side order if you want them with the steak). There are salads and other sandwiches though it is clear that steak is the main thrust. There were, I believe, six variations on offer.

The by-the-glass wine list is adequate if not adventurous — this is a chain after all. I had a Tierra Secreta Malbec that paired nicely with the steak.

Sam & Harry’s was a good place to refuel before the flight home and would have been great for a business lunch or dinner. Still missing Legal’s? Not so much.

Looking to dine away from the airport? Fellow Nomads have some updated suggestions: Masa 14 for Latin and Asian small plates, Monmartre if French is what you crave, or The Oval Room for contemporary American.

Have you been to DC lately? Share your favorites for a business lunch or dinner.

The Perimeter is in the Sandy Springs area and is rather desolate: a modern landscape of malls, undistinguished office buildings, chain restaurants, and hotels like the Marriott. Even the W seemed forlorn. Taking a walk one evening I felt like an alient being: the only two-legged creature roaming the concrete tundra.

Still the MARTA was nearby which made it easy to get to the hotel from the airport without burning a lot of fossil fuel.

All was not lost, however. This nomad is not easily defeated. One of my local hosts brought us to the Float Away Cafe, a chic modern spot located in a renovated warehouse. The elijay apple, endive, and raddichio salad with fresh cheddar was crisp and delicious. The calves’ liver appetizer also received raves.  For entrees, the ahi tuna with blood orange was tender and flavorful, the quail with bartlett pears was moist and tender, and the mountain trout with brussels sprouts also got high marks. The wine list was quite reasonable (we had a Terrazano Malbec for $26).

I made two visits to the Woodfire Grill: one for lunch and later for a glass of wine after dinner. The place felt like a chain, perhaps because of its location next to a mall or the design that felt like it could be replicated easily and efficiently – but a Capital Grille sort of chain that was fine for a business lunch or dinner. However, it is a locally owned spot that features many local and organic ingredients. The service was friendly (though it was difficult to get them to stop clearing plates until we’d all finished a course). We four all had the Alaskan Cod lunch special that was flaky and moist with a panko crust. We left pleased.

When I returned later in the evening, I was pleased to find a bar that was dark enough that it felt like a place where adult beverages could be consumed yet light enough for reading a magazine (I find that key when out alone). The wine list was unadventurous but adequate and there was a Hanna special that was quite tasty. I’ll visit again when I am in the neighborhood.

I was also lucky enough to have two home-cooked meals which is a real treat while on an extended business trip. The only words I’ll share on those are praise: both were delicious and generous. The other treat: I snuck into the Varsity for a chili dog and onion rings one day at lunch – a real down-home treat.

Last by not least, should you need to bring a gift for your host or hostess in the event of a home-cooked offering be sure to check out Wine Styles. All of the wine at this shop is $25 or less (so you won’t break the bank) and they offer regular tastings. We found the staff quite helpful and the wines generally of good quality and excellent value. They also stock a nice selection of gift bags. Now you know why we try to list a wine shop, florist, and chocolate shop in every city we cover. We’re still looking for a great florist and chocolatier in Atlanta. Thoughts? Recommendations?

It’s done in the classic style — furniture reminiscent of some not-quite-discernable previous period — Edwardian, perhaps — which is a bit different now that most new properties are grasping for hipness. The room was certainly adequate and well-priced: the weekend rate was just under $200. The bed was comfortable and requests for decaf coffee for the in-room coffee maker and extra towels were seen to promptly. The staff was courteous throughout.

The television was set on a wall perpendicular to the way one lies on the bed which made viewing awkward, particularly given that there was no side chair as an alternative. However, that was a mild distraction — when one is in NY, the last thing on the agenda should be watching television.

It’s generally true that the farther east or west from 5th Avenue you are willing to venture, the greater value you’ll find. Most of the comparable hotels we’ve found are farther south — Murray Hill has quite a few — and if you want to be a bit more uptown, The Fitzpatrick is a good choice. Just two blocks south of Bloomingdale’s, it is a bit dangerous if you have a shopper in tow.

We did discover two wonderful restaurants to put on your list (they’ll be going on our NY page shortly): Toqueville and 15 East  both on East 15th Street. We visisted both as part of a private affair so please take these observations in that context. Toqueville offers French cuisine in a cozy, comfortable setting. The roasted pear salad, golden beet risotto, and beef two ways were all memorable. The portions were just right for a four-course meal.

We didn’t actually get to eat at 15 East (it was the site of a wedding ceremony we were attending) but several of the people we met during the evening confirmed that it is a great local spot: neighorhood-y yet still elegant enough for an evening out to feel special. We will be stopping by to try the sushi when next in NYC.

We need to learn from the Israelis and engage in greater behavioral screening (which is not racial profiling). Terrorists’ methods will change as they adapt to our defensive measures. What remains much more constant, however, are the wiring of the human brain, the body’s reactions to stress, and the signals that reveal someone is lying or being deceitful. Teaching airport security personnel to identify the behavioral cues consistent with illegal activity will be far more effective than investing in another generation of super scanners. New scanners and other technologies should be deployed randomly to keep terrorists guessing but universal deployment is a waste of time and money. The “thing” will never be foolproof and under-investing in human capabilities in order to buy more machines is short-sighted at best.

Further, we the traveling public must take seriously the role we have as first preventers and first responders. It was passengers who saved the Northwest flight and any of us may be called upon to take similar action. We are not merely along for the ride: we are part of the security system. While the TSA can be an easy target for our rage, we must accept some responsibility ourselves.

Meanwhile as the lines grow longer for the masses, airlines are rolling out more perks for those who have achieved the most elite status in their frequent flier programs. As the New York Times reports:

“Members at these levels, in addition to getting bragging rights, might be offered free access to airport clubs and automatic check-in, might get fees for extra bags waived, and might be allowed to go to the front of any line — and sit in the front of the cabin — even when other travelers paid more for their tickets.

Once inside those airline clubs, these elite fliers can get free cocktails and buffet meals, perhaps a shower, and in the case of some Delta clubs, practice time on putting greens.”

I have no issue with those who rack up buckets of miles getting extra benefits. Flying enough to get to that status takes a toll on the body, mind, home life, and more so a couple of free cocktails is small compensation. What bothers me is that these additional perks seem to come at the expense of even minimal levels of service in the main cabin. I don’t begrudge anyone their pass to the Red Carpet Club unless it comes at the expense of my on-board pillow. (Full disclosure: I have enjoyed elite status with various airlines from time to time though because of my varied travel schedule and preference for direct, non-stop flights as well as an editorial interest in sampling various carriers, hotels, car rental companies, etc.,  I’m not a mile slut who will do whatever it takes to get the most miles on a single airline. I generally fly steerage plus domestically).

One of my hopes for 2010 is that frequent flier programs get more rational. For example, the airlines shouldn’t encourage everyone who flies to become a member (it’s expensive to maintain those memberships and people who fly only a few flights a year won’t earn any free travel). Set a threshold for membership. This is what we did when I helped launch the first retail frequent buyer program (Mark Cross Preferred around 1984) and the threshold helped ensure that only frequent buyers were in the program and allowed us to make the benefits more generous because we avoided the expense of tracking purchases of occasional customers.

Second, the programs need to wean themselves from the sale of miles to be “given away” through marginally related third parties (like credit card companies). I know that the airlines like the cash as it helps them to offer seats at below cost (this twisted business model is fodder for another post) but it pollutes (and dilutes the effectiveness of) the program by mixing those who actually fly frequently with those who buy groceries using their Delta Amex card so they can get a free flight once a year to see the grandchildren. Keep the mileage accumulating opportunities related to the behavior you hope to enourage.

Third, and this is really a combination of the first two: it’s time for a giant flush of the system because there are far more miles accumulated than there are seats to fulfill them. Thus we find airlines sending us catalogs through which one can buy cameras and televisions using miles. Get back to a point where those loyal fliers who can’t make it to the double-dip elite super status still have some chance of deriving actual benefits from the program.

But enough ranting. Let’s end 2009 on a high note. If you haven’t yet seen Up in the Air, the new film staring George Clooney as an uber-traveler, fly on down to the nearest theater and grab a seat on the aisle. It’s well-written, well-acted, and quite thought provoking. And Vera Farmiga is a shoo-in for the Academy Award for best shot involving a neck tie. It might even encourage a resurgence in men’s neckwear (though perhaps more as lingerie then office attire).

Happy New Year! See you in the 10.

Photo: George Clooney in Up in the Air.

Gourmet has been an inspiration to me for years. It is among the catalysts for my view of travel that focuses on experience, authenticity, and adventure that can be part of even the most mundane business trip if you approach it with the right frame of mind. Gourmet was always about more than recipes — it was about our physical and spiritual relationship with food and the places where we encouter food whether in the field, in the kitchen, or on the plate. Nourishment in every sense of the word. It offered consistently intelligent and insightful travel writing (my favorite part of the magazine).

I do extensive research before I travel and Gourmet has been a regular resource as I make the list of places to evaluate for posting on Executive Nomad. Much like my old issues of European Travel & Life (where I once worked — the obit is remarkably similar in tone), I think Gourmet will remain a resource for some time to come. Ruth, if you or any of your staff want to contribute to Executive Nomad, just let me know.

Most of the commentary on the closing I’ve read have focused on the flight of advertisers from print in general or to titles that are more focused on practical how-to features. Gourmet has always been aspirational and I think that we are no longer an aspirational nation. We have become much more sophisticated about food and the world in general so people may no longer look to the guidance on how to expand their worlds (though, to me, that is the beginning of both intellectual and physical death). We have become used to acquiring rather than aspiring. You don’t dream about a killer kitchen,  you dip into your home equity and get one (well, at least until recently).  We’ve also succumbed to our over-busy, over-fragmented, over-scheduled lives and our reach is more limited: a great (and I use the term loosely) 30-minute meal for the family rather than a knockout, five-course dinner party for 10 that would include engaging conversation long into the evening.

I don’t doubt that few of us lived that life regularly but we did each month in the pages of that magazine. It was, in many ways, more dream book than how-to manual. Advertisers prefer how-to. The “insert tab A into slot B” connection is easy for them to understand. I like how-to as well but not to the exclusion of what-could-be. Find me a how-to magazine that had a significant impact on the larger conversation. Martha Stewart Living may come to mind but Martha has always been focused on a larger mission of bringing elegance to everyday life. How-to is simply a vehicle, not an end in itself.

Gourmet was also criticized for catering to an elite. It did and I’m proud to count myself among that elite — an elite that I see as open, democratic, and welcoming to all who hunger for deeper understanding of themselves and the world around them. Apparently we are dwindling in number and getting too old to matter to many advertisers. That is sad on many fronts.

Finally, a bit about the finances of magazines. They were never meant to make a lot of money. They were meant to make a reasonable return in good times and not lose the whole pot when the economy got tight. This is one reason why I never understood private equity’s interest in publishing except to the extent that they see a situation where they can quickly extract some value and then push the corpse into the river. Don’t go into publishing to get rich. If you manage to obtain great wealth, consider yourself extraordinarily lucky.

Magazines have been a way to unite people with imagination but not much money with people with money but not much imagination. Perhaps you made a bundle in cement. Perfectly respectable but not very sexy. Invest some of that bundle in a magazine and you suddenly get invited to the right parties, hang out with some artsy people, get a little wild.  You may get Park Avenue respectability or downtown street cred depending on the title. You get a tax loss to offset of that cement money. You get to have some fun and expand your horizons. Perhaps you even get laid. That, Mr. (or Ms.) Moneybags, is your ROI.

And, as Kelvin Thompson and I discussed on the MontaRosa blog, it will be intriguing to see if the same CEO who has presided over all of the cuts at Conde Nast can also lead an aggressive expansion into new media and titles.

There is an interesting review of a history of Ramparts magazine in the Times today that shows the difference between a magazine with editorial balls and most of the pack:

Ramparts stood apart from the brawling underground press of the 1960s not only because of the quality of its writing, but also for its élan, its aura of brewing drama.The magazine looked good. It was printed on glossy stock and, rare for an alternative magazine, had national distribution. (In 1968 its circulation was nearly 250,000, more than double that of The Nation.) Its covers were provocative, occasionally bordering, Mr. Richardson acknowledges, on seditious. One infamous Ramparts cover from 1969 depicted a 6-year-old boy holding a Vietcong flag. The caption said: “Alienation is when your country is at war, and you want the other side to win.”

Gourmet was hardly radical or underground but it had recently become more political, looking at the ethics of food and food production. I don’t see Rachel Ray taking on that challenge (but I’d welcome it if she did — the debate could use a little perkiness).

Executive Nomad is my magazine. I’ll likely never have glossy paper or extravagant photo shoots but they aren’t the point. We need people pushing the dialog and advancing our discussions. Ruth Reichl and her team at Gourmet did that. I’ll miss them and look for their voices to reemerge. In the meantime, I’ll try to honor them as my fellow Nomads and I carry on the good fight.

Tonight at 8, Elizabeth Eisenbeis Schneider — an Executive Nomad contributor and somm-in-residence at the Wine For Normal People blog — will be blogging live as she tastes three Rieslings. Her nom de vin is Vine75Tweets so watch for it at www.tastelive.com.

Salut!

I was happy to find a Kimpton hotel, The Argonaut, there and it was quite satisfactory. It is in an old cannery building with large wooden beams that give it a vintage industrial feel. The decor is a bit sailor kitsch but it was comfortable overall. As a member of Kimpton InTouch (their frequent guest program), I had free Wifi during my stay — the perfect amenity for any business trip. Their restaurant, The Blue Mermaid, was a bit bright but offered a fabulous Dungeness crab and corn chowder and the bar staff was friendly and helpful. It’s a good option for dining solo if you need one.

The real find, also in the hotel building but not otherwise linked to the hotel, was The Winery Collective tasting room. I don’t generally go for tasting rooms as I find the wines are usually not that special and the staff not particularly knowledgeable. The Winery Collective was just the opposite: some lovely small production wines from throughout California such as Sol Rouge and Skylark and a staff full of information without being overbearing about it. I had the Red Reserve flight one evening and the All Whites flight the next. Both were delightful.

When venturing a bit further afield for evening dining, I was pleased to find Luella on Russian Hill. It is a modern neighborhood restaurant (the kind that always makes me want to live in the neighborhood) with house made pasta, intriguing salads (mine was grilled peach and ricotta), and a nice list of wines by the glass. It had an airy, open feel that was quite welcoming to me as a solo diner.  It would also be a great setting for a quiet client dinner. If you are brave enough to walk up from Fisherman’s Wharf, take Larkin for a spectacular view of the Golden Gate Bridge and then cut back over to Hyde.

I also recommend The Plant Cafe Organic at Pier 3 on the Embarcadero. This is a small organic restaurant just a few blocks from ferry Terminal 1 with its more renowned restaurants. However, the Pier 1 eateries settle down shortly after the evening commute. The Plant is not as large and so feels cozier even when not overly crowded. The oysters were delicate and flavorful; the pasta with shrimp and herbs a light and satisfying treat.

Finally, at Fort Mason Center itself check out Greens, a haute veggie eatery featuring the creations of chef Annie Somerville as you look out over the marina toward the Golden Gate Bridge. It’s a bit out of the way but well worth the trip. If you don’t mind the walk, you can head along the water by the recently restored aquatic park — an art deco wonder with stellar tile work (pictured above) — at the San Francisco National Historic Park and then up over the hill in Fort Mason Park and down to Fort Mason Center.

P.S. I can’t forget to give some Fog City sweet treat shout outs: I tried (and loved) LaLoo’s goat’s milk ice cream — the founder attended the BeDo event; indulged in sumptuous house-made chocolates from Recchiuti at the Ferry Building Marketplace; and then I dipped myself in chocolate once again with XOX Truffles for the plane ride home (citron and champagne were my two faves).

I tried Busboys & Poets in DC last week. On prior trips I’ve had interesting solo meals at Truluck’s in Dallas, Cesca in New York, Conduit in San Francisco, and many others. Almost wants me to sing, “Hey there, lonely boy…” but I view such evenings as an adventure. I spent three nights in a row at a dive bar in New Orleans watching the American League playoffs in 2003. I met new people every night and built up a rapport with the bartender. Food service consisted of a local guy with a bicycle who’d go get take-out for a tip. It was hardly fine dining but it was a lot of fun. Sadly, I don’t believe the bar reopened after Katrina.

What makes for a great place to eat alone? I have several criteria and I’d love to hear yours. I always look for a place that I can cruise by before I make a commitment.  You know, I case the joint like a private eye. Seriously, once you’ve been out even a few times you can pick up the vibe of an establishment pretty quickly.

First, I tend to eat at the bar so that I can observe the scene, perhaps watch something on the television, or strike up a casual conversation to pass the time. That means I need a bar that welcomes diners and doesn’t just tolerate them. I scan to see if anyone else is eating and looking at the quality of the set up. If I can’t see that, I order a drink and see how readily the barkeep offers a food menu. The quicker the better. Steak houses seem to do a generally good job of this though that gets complicated if you don’t want a big hunk o’ beef.  The restaurants attached to Kimpton hotels have also generally been good though there is a lot of variation across the country (these restaurants have to stand on their own as a business and so tend to be more interesting than a typical hotel eatery.

And speaking of barkeeps, an affable one certainly helps.  A great barkeep knows how to judge if you want to talk or be left alone. I’m generally open to conversation  and enjoy hearing their take on the local economy, the sports scene, or the news of the day. The absolute master of this is Norman Bukofzer at the Ritz-Carlton in New York (Central Park South). Norman is not only an entertainer at heart but knows your drink and name forever after you’ve ordered once and has an amazing ability to connect people to each other around the bar. He gets people talking to each other and that makes everyone feel comfortable and at home. I hope that Ritz-Carlton is video taping him and creating instructional films for the next generation.

Finally, I like a bit of light as I always head out for a dinner alone with something to read. Reading helps pace the meal and let’s you stick to yourself if that’s what you choose to do. I’m sure that Kindle owners will be smirking about now as their back-lit screens would overcome this problem. It might even give me an excuse to get one though I prefer being able to roll up The New Yorker and stick in my back pocket. Worse still are the iPhone owners who read Anna Karenina on their phones. I’m never sure if that’s reading or just desparate longing for an e-mail with an offer for something better to do.

How about you? Do you go out alone while on the road? What makes for a great evening when you do?